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NYFW FW16 Beauty: Get The Makeup Look At Pamella Roland With Artistry [Interview]

Feb 14, 2016 10:44 AM EST
Pamella Roland
(Photo : Getty Images/Ben Gabbe)

Inspired by modern Japanese architecture, the beauty look at Pamella Roland's fall/winter 2016 runway show was clean and minimal.

Prior to Friday's show, we chatted with makeup artist Rick DiCecca, who created the beauty look for the runway using Artistry products, about re-creating that same look at home. We discussed what the process of coming up with a beauty look for a runway show is like and much more. Keep reading for the full interview. 

(Photo : Getty Images/Ben Gabbe)

1. Tell us about the beauty look for the show? What inspired it?

"The beauty look for the show for NYFW FW16 is a take on Pamella's overall inspiration of modern Japanese architecture — specifically the new modern architecture in Tokyo. I'm a big fan of modern architecture, but I had to figure out how to make this work for the beauty elements of the show. Tokyo architecture is made up of clean and straight lines, so I decided to incorporate the idea of the straight line into the beauty look, but I wanted to deconstruct it to make it work on an eye. It's a very minimal look. The skin is bare with minimal contour, the eyes are bare except for this deconstructed eyeliner and lashes, and there is no lipstick — bare, minimal. For me, when I have inspirations that are not necessarily conducive to beauty, I have to find a way to make it work on a model, so that was the mission with this look."

(Photo : Getty Images/Ben Gabbe)

2. What are some of the highlights?

"The biggest highlight is the fact that there is no lip. The lip is the same color as the foundation. The highlight is the eye — the way the eyeliner is used — in a very different way (architectural way). It accentuates the eye but not in a typical way."

(Photo : Courtesy/Artistry)

3. What products did you use to complete the look?

"Face: Hydra-VTM Vital Skin Serum Concentrate ($67), Hydra-VTM Refreshing Gel ($43), Artistry Hydra-VTM Refreshing Eye Gel Cream ($45), Artistry Exact FitTM Beauty Balm Perfecting Primer ($47), Artistry Exact FitTM Longwearing Foundation, Artistry Exact FitTM Perfecting Loose Powder ($32), Artistry Concealer Stick ($22)

Eyes: Artistry Spicy Bronze Eye Shadow Quad ($44), Artistry Signature Eyes Automatic Liquid Liner ($21), Artistry Signature Eyes Length and Definition Mascara ($26), Artistry Automatic EyeBrow Pencil ($28)

Cheeks: Artistry Signature ColorTM Blush in Golden Light ($18)

Lips: Artistry Exact FitTM Longwearing Foundation."

4. Walk us through your process of coming up with beauty looks for runway shows.

"After the initial meeting, Pamella brought me back to her workroom and showed me all of the photographs that were the base of the inspiration for the collection and the fabrics that they had made. Many of the inspirations and fabrics were taken quite literally from real Japanese architecture. In some of the dresses, you can definitely see vestiges of some of these really iconic buildings. There's one dress in the line that reminds us all of the Prada building in Tokyo. I think this literal design works so beautifully for the clothing, but it means that I have to find a way to translate this into something that works on the human face. For inspiration, I went to go see the Picasso show at the MoMA. Nobody deconstructs the human face better than Picasso. I took note of where his starting and ending points are when he's deconstructing the human face, and it helped inform the makeup for the show."

5. As a makeup artist, how do you take a designer's collection and use that as inspiration for your beauty look?

"I think that one of the things that resonated with me this time especially was that I love modern architecture, and it spans so many different forms. There's so much creativity that goes into it. If you look at work of Rem Koolhaas or Richard Neutra — here you have these modern architects that have to create structures with some connection to a human so that they're livable, alluring and comforting. I think about how the architect was able to create a building that was interesting to humans — one that people were attracted to — and then I think about how I can draw from this to take architectural elements that work for the human face."

6. We imagine doing makeup for a runway show is a collaboration between the beauty team and the designer. How involved was Pamella in creating the look for her FW16 show?

"Pamella always walks me through the inspiration and is wonderful about explaining it to me so that I can incorporate it into my strategy. If she's inspired by a book, we both read the book so that we can communicate on that level. This time, when she was traveling, she sent me photos of buildings that inspired her, and over the course of her travels, her inspiration for this season's collections really grew and became more refined. I really watched as the inspiration solidified — it was a very organic process."

7. What tips do you have for readers trying to re-create a similar look at home?

"For me, I always say that there is an approachable way to bring the runway to reality. The eyes for the show are actually unexpectedly easy, considering that they're straight, solid lines. That said, if you'd prefer to do something a little less dramatic than the liner, then you can create the same shape with eyeshadow for a softer look. True, it's not your everyday street look, but in some instances, it could work for a party or evening affair. Other easy ways to incorporate this look into daily life are to add a bit of extra color to the cheeks for a more natural look and to replace the foundation on the lips with a nude lip color for less of a statement. It's really about picking apart the parts of the look that work for your lifestyle and level of skill. You still have to practice and play and make sure that it looks good for you — no matter who you are. But don't take it too seriously — it's fashion, not brain surgery!"   

(Photo : Getty Images/Ben Gabbe)

8. Can you tell us some details about the IBOs (the amateur makeup artists who work with Artistry that helped you backstage at the show)?

"It's indescribably exciting for me to see these people that I've known and trained for years get to experience such a rare and coveted opportunity. As part of my relationship with Amway and Artistry, I regularly do training sessions and seminars, etc. In this case, I auditioned over 200 of these artists, all of which are Amway distributors (Independent Business Owners), and the fact that 10 made it backstage is a testament to their incomparable skillsets. I remember when they would come to my first class. They didn't know how to work with a brush, and now they're doing the makeup for the models at NYFW. If it's a surreal experience for me, I can't even imagine how they feel. The way that Amway and Artistry work also means that the women and men that are backstage doing makeup are also business owners, and they make their living by selling Artistry skincare and cosmetics. So the fact that their careers mix with their passions in such a sustainable way is really encouraging to see. All of them are committed to what they do in such a contagious way, and I love to see that they've been able to transform what some people settle for as a hobby into a full-time lifestyle." 

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